Effective Microorganisms (EM)
If I
had to choose one product as being the most important for the garden, effective
microorganisms would
be it. EM is a liquid mixture of important beneficial microorganisms that are
known to work cooperatively to provide tremendous benefits for soil and plants.
One of
the main reasons I started this business was because I couldn't buy effective
microorganisms in Canada. I couldn't find it.
But
since then, I've seen incredible results using it on many different gardens,
and I'm heard even more great feedback from customers. Plus I've gone through a
lot of the research and the results are incredible (e.g. 50% increase in yield,
elimination of disease, etc.).
I've
never had that big of a yield boost, but I have seen numerous benefits.
This is one of the most important products I carry and is
equally economical to purchase. The benefits of EM are so immense, I cannot
even begin to do it justice. I can start a list like the one below, but it's
really just the beginning. EM technology will improve:
·
Seed germination and plant health
·
Plant nutrient uptake
·
The composting process (including bokashi composting)
·
The soil in your lawn and garden
·
Water quality
·
Breakdown of sewage sludge
Effective microorganisms mother culture can be
used straight from the bottle, or it can be activated first. Note that EM is
sold under many brand names (you may have searched for em1, em-1, emro, biosa,
efficient microbes, etc.) some better than others. This one from SCD called
'ProBio Balance Plus' is on par with the best of them, made by people who have
studied under Dr. Teruo Higa.
Already Activated
If you
don't want to go through the process of activating the effective
microorganisms, you can buy it already activated.
Not
only is it less expensive, but many of the microbes have recently been awakened
from dormancy, so it is of equal or maybe even better quality for application
purposes.
pH paper
I also
carry pH paper, which is useful to determine when the activation process of
effective microorganisms is finished. The range is 2.9 - 5.2 and we're looking
for an ideal range of 3.2-3.5, and at least below 3.9.
Please
note: Due to its narrow range, this pH paper is not suitable for measuring soil
pH.
Bokashi
Bokashi
consists of bran that has been fermented with effective microorganisms and then
dried for easy storage. It is used primarily in bokashi composting, and as a
general soil amendment.
This
particular product is made right here on Vancouver Island by Cowichan Compost.
Larger quantities available on request.
What is EM Activation?
Effective
microorganisms can be "activated", a 1-4 week process (or longer) by
which 1 part EM (mixed with 1 part molasses and 20 parts water) is fermented to
increase your quantity of EM by approximately 20 times. The resulting activated
EM (AEM) is used the same as regular EM.
It has
traditionally been done to save money and improve the efficacy of the EM,
primarily because it wakes up dormant microbes. It sounds a bit overwhelming at
first, but it is actually easy and very fun. You don't have to do it, but I
recommend it if you will be using a lot of EM, as it will save you money.
Alternatively, you can order it already activated by me up above.
Effective Microorganisms Application
Preferably,
effective microorganisms would be applied in smaller, regular doses, such as
monthly or even weekly. At minimum, it should be done once in the spring and
once in the fall. EM works great when combined with biostimulants. Here are
some application rates, with more details at the links below:
Dilution
- EM and activated EM can be diluted with water for application with ratios
from 1:50 water to 1:10000 water. This ratio depends on the frequency of
application and the area you are trying to cover. For example, daily use
through irrigation systems is often done at very diluted ratios. Use on turf
and in gardens would be lower.
Here
are some ratios that I have come up with based on my research. I spent
considerable time researching application rates for my February 2009
Newsletter.
I
determined that it would be a good idea to experiment with using lesser amounts
of EM (the lower end of the scale below), particularly if you are having
trouble diluting it with sufficient water. As shown below, I would like to see
at least a 1:250 dilution for foliar sprays and a 1:100 for turf and soil, and
I believe that 85 ml (1/3 cup) of EM per thousand square feet would be a good
place to start:
·
1:10000 - for daily use, such
as through an irrigation system
·
1:1000 - for weekly foliar use;
20-125 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft
·
1:100-1:250 - for monthly use
as a foliar feed; higher dilution (1:250) is better if possible; 85-500 ml of
EM per 1000 sq ft
·
1:50 - for monthly/seasonal use
on turf and as a soil drench; higher dilution (1:100) is better if possible;
85-500 ml of EM per 1000 sq ft
·
1:1000 - for soaking seeds;
5-10 minutes only, as some seed may ferment after too long
I have
never run into any problems, but it is theoretically possible to ferment
flowers and young, tender leaves if the application rate is below 1:250. If you
have prize roses, it would be best to use a more diluted ratio to avoid this
possibility. Note that the application rates above and below are for the EM
before it has been diluted.
If
you're using city water and you want to get rid of the chlorine, leaving it in
a pail for 24 hours will be sufficient to dechlorinate it in most cities. In
some cities such as Victoria, however, they use chloramine in the water
(chlorine and ammonium), which does not dissipate as readily. In this case, a
small amount of humic acids or a crushed Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) tablet can
be stirred into the water before use.
Here is
another way to look at effective microorganisms application rates:
·
Lawn and Garden -
Manufacturer's recommend a total of 1 gallon(US) per 1000 sq ft per year, split
into applications as often as is feasible. This is a lot more than is typically
used in agriculture (see below). I believe we should try using the agriculture
rates, particularly if we are using a backpack sprayer or something similar
where mixing it with enough water for a proper dilution is not feasible due to
time contraints. I think that perhaps the dilution ratio is more important than
the actual rate of application.
·
Compost - 1:100 until compost
is moist, but not soaked (like a wrung out sponge).
·
Agricultural inoculant - A
total of 1 to 10 gallons(US) per acre per year, split into applications as
often as is feasible. For some reason, the recommendations for farming are
generally less. There could be several reasons for this, but ultimately it
points to the fact that there is no recipe. Research is still being done on
optimal dilutions and application rates.
Bokashi Usage
Bokashi
composting takes relatively short time and does not require a big compost bin.
It is well suited for an apartment or balcony. Kitchen scraps are fermented in
a sealed bucket with the help of bokashi bran infused with effective
microorganisms. Because the scraps are essentially pickled, there is neither
odour nor insects, and virtually no limit to what can go in the bucket: You can
compost all vegetable and fruit materials including citrus, as well as raw or
cooked food, and even dairy, fish, meat, and bones.
In a
plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid, layer bran and food wastes until the
bucket is full, then let this sit for a couple of weeks with the lid on tight.
The fermented material can then be buried in the garden and will continue to
decompose underground, while creating a nutritious depot of organic matter in
the soil. You can plant the spot as early as two weeks later. It’s a win-win:
Re-using kitchen waste right at home where it was generated, and providing
nutrients and beneficial microorganisms to your garden soil at the same time!
Bokashi
can be used to activate compost (mix one pound bokashi bran into a quarter yard
of organic matter and keep covered). It can also be dug into the soil at a rate
of one pound per 200 square feet, or be used to topdress lawns and gardens. Last
not least, bokashi can be fed to livestock at a rate of 3-5% of their feed
rations.
You can
make your own bokashi by fermenting bran or sawdust with a mixture of EM,
water, and molasses. It’s much like activating EM: The ratio is 1 part EM to 1
part molasses to 100 parts water. Add this liquid to dry bran and mix until the
bran feels evenly moist but not wet. Then pack the bran firmly in an air tight
container, cover the top to keep out oxygen, and let it ferment in a warm place
for one to two weeks. When it’s done, the bran should have a sweet and pleasant
smell. It can now be dried and used in the bokashi bucket with your food
scraps.
Lastly:
Activated EM works just as well as EM mother culture for making bokashi bran,
and saves money!
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